Tania (left) and SonyaJoy led a cooking class at Pershing Avenue Gardens Saturday, August 14th featuring three globally sourced, locally grown herbs: papalo, Besobela (Ethiopian holy basil), and Akoko Mesa basil.
When we think of food justice, access and affordability are often centered. Cultural relevance is also an important part of the mix! The foods that are connected to our memories, hearts and worldview are the often those we are confident to identify, cook, and enjoy fresh. Maybe like me, you grew up eating certain vegetables and remember your grandmother’s hands washing them under sparkling water. Maybe seeds of these plants have been passed down in your family, a loving forethought of a bright future. When we include who we are and where our people come from, we can get a fuller picture of what food justice looks, tastes and smells like. We can grow vegetables and herbs from all over the world in our region, transforming global foods into local treasures. As a country of immigrants, we can savor the flavors of home.
Trapped indoors due to COVID and cold weather, winter provided a great time to do research. Over these months, PFP Green Jobs young adult interns did diligent research, narrowing down a broad search for herbs and vegetables that include palates from Africa, Central and South America and Asia. Two online resources stood out among the rest. True Love Seeds’ online seed catalogue has in-depth descriptions of the cultural roots of each plant that provides much connection to source than the average seed packet. The University of Vermont’s Center for Sustainable Agriculture’s “Global Food, Local Food: Guide to Growing, Harvesting and Preserving African & Asian Crops in the Northeast” is a wealth of information on plants like African Eggplant (also called White Garden Egg) and Bitter Melon.
A few highlights from our research included a range of herbs. Herbs are the heavyweights of the kitchen in my opinion. Thai basil can take a curry from flat to herbaceous and citrusy. A dose of chimichurri, a sauce made of vinegar, chili and green herbs, will brighten any meat, fish or vegan protein immediately. Below are 2 of my personal favorites. Akoko Mesa Basil from Ghana is an earthy, minty basil variety. The name means “Chicken Dance” since this herb can make chicken, and many other foods, really sing! We sourced our Akoko Mesa Basil seeds from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. Papalo originated in South America, and is often eaten as a fresh finishing herb typically kept on the table and tear onto your food right before you dig in. If you like cilantro, you might adore papalo! It’s similar, but even more bold. As a gardener, it’s a tremendous gift since papalo grows all summer long - it’s not prone to bolt in the heat. Terroir Seeds and Johnny’s Selected Seeds both carry papalo, unfortunately it doesn’t grow wild in our region as it does in the southwest.
Akoko Mesa Basil from Ghana, featured on Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds' Rare Seeds website.
Papalo, a summer heat-loving alternative to cilantro.
Thanks to the dedication of PFP educators, especially Kathryn Brignac, Farm to School Manager and our co-conspirator Greenhouse Manager, André Luiz de Oliveira Domingues, we were able to start a selection of seeds this spring. With some diligent effort and lots of watering, seedlings were able to make it into the ground in the PFP Seed Saving Garden as well as some of the new, PFP-supported gardens which are only in their first or second seasons including Pershing Avenue, Rip Van Winkle Apartments, and Hudson Garden Apartments / Boys and Girls Club Community Gardens.
Besobela Ethiopian Basil from True Love Seeds, currently grows in the PFP Seed Saving Gardens.
Now that we have several varieties of herbs, as well as Aji Dulce Peppers, African Eggplant, and Mitsuba (Japanese Parsley) growing in PFP and community gardens, we can get cooking! Saturday, August 14th Tania Hernandez-Martinez, Assistant Garden Educator and Community Garden Steward, and I led a cooking workshop to trial some of these new herb varieties. With Helana Mazurek, Scenic Hudson SCA Intern/Event and Community Project Assistant, and community members we prepared Summer Squash Tacos with Papalo Guacamole, Akoko Mesa Basil Peach Mango Salad, and Timatim (Ethiopian Tomato Salad) with Besobela Basil. Our cooking classes are COVID-safe, everyone wears masks and prepares their own tasting without sharing food. These same recipes will be featured at our upcoming Adult Gardener Workshops on Saturday September 18th. Registration coming soon for Poughkeepsie residents. Please email gardens[at]farmproject[dot]org for details.
Ingredients for cooking workshop included ripe summer tomatoes, crispy peppers, and juicy peaches from PFP and local farms with 2 varieties of African basil.